Monday, April 30, 2007

Internal Watch


Designed by Leon Ransmeier for Vlaemsch ( ), this cocooned watch is encapsulated in leather rendering it non-functional as a timepiece. The designer explains, "The hidden watch transcends typical associations of status by isolating the emerging form rather than acting as a flashy signifier."

Although the identity of the encased watch is concealed, its contours suggest certain top-of-mind luxury cliches.



via BoingBoing, available at Vivre, designed at Vlaemsch ( )


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Friday, April 27, 2007

Interview with Martin Frei of Urwerk

A very interesting interview of Martin Frei, the designer and co-founder of the revolutionary watch brand, Urwerk. (by Felipe Jordao) -->Link




Related posts;
Urwerk Time Bandit
Urwerk Visit
Urwerk Hammerhead 201


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Thursday, April 26, 2007

1941 Officine Panerai Commando Watch Set

Modern Panerai collectors are rabid angry beasts and they'll likely kill a small child for the upcoming vintage 1941 'Radiomir Panerai Commando Set' auction by Antiquorum. A group of very rare watches built for Italian Navy Frogmen in WWII. Included are a compass, depth gauge and wristwatch with documentation of ownership and details of their use in sabotage missions attacking British warships. This set is expected to sell between $57,000 and $75,000.

Auction-->Link

A previous set featuring watch/compass/depth gauge but also included a morse code device and diving knife. Link

Panerai Website-->Link

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Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Satellite Telephone Wristwatches of 1979


A cell phone vision from the 1979 book "Future Cities - Homes & Living into the 21st Century". Page 12 foreshadows a telephone wristwatch (they even speculate the nickname "The Risto") connected by satellites and capable of electronic mail and most surprisingly, electronic voting. All activated by pressing the aerial pop-out button!

Cover of the book


via Paleo-Future

Related posts;
Wrist Radios
Camera Watches
James Bond Watches


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Tuesday, April 24, 2007

16th Century Gun Powder Flask-Sundial Compass Watch


Portable watches had only been around a few decades when this multi-function timepiece was built in southern Germany circa 1590.

Consisting of a round powder flask made of rosewood with inlaid and engraved rosette-shaped ornaments of brass and bone. A small clock with 1-12 hours twice situated on the outer ring. The small funnel of bone is closed with a springy lid made of brass. Below the center under the engraved lid with a transversally placed hinge, there is a horizontal sundial with indication of the hours from six o'clock in the morning to six o'clock in the evening. A small compass with north-south indication but without correction for the magnetic pole. The string gnomon is stretched by opening the lid and is only valid for one latitude. On the side of the flask, there is an opening to a funnel-shaped small pipe which is placed in the socket and allows for filling up the powder flask. Diameter 10.8cm


From the Beyer Watch and Clock Museum in Zurich-->Link
Museum Collection Photomontage-->Link

Related posts;

Wood & Bone Pocket Watches

Wristwatches of War


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Monday, April 23, 2007

The Ikepod Has Landed...Again

The new Ikepod 'Black Hole' (edition of 66)
Only sold as silhouette, no images shown until the potential owners buy it

Marc Newson's iconic watches are back, this time with more expensive materials, extensive (re)designs and overall exclusivity. I met with new owner and prominent art collector Adam Lindemann (for QP Magazine) in his New York office to discuss the rebirth of the brand famously represented by flightless birds. For my full article, get QP's 2007 issue #24.

The cases have been redesigned to allow for Newson's originally intended perfect ellipse, now only made of precious metals and fit with better movements. While Ikepod was in hibernation, Newson's reputation grew considerably with record breaking sales like his famous 1980s Lockheed Lounge which recently sold at Sotheby's for nearly a million dollars - The most ever for a living designer. Newson has also been exhibited more often as an artist than a designer as with his recent show at the influential Gagosian Gallery in New York City.

Hemipode dual-time Chronograph
(La Joux-Perret 8206-1 movement)


The Horizon (ETA 2892 'Finition Soignee')

Megapode Chronograph (La Joux-Perret 8301)

The $1,000,000 Lockheed Lounge

Marc Newson Links;
Gagosian Exhibit
Marc Newson Website
Ikepod Website

Related Posts;
Marc Newson 1986 Pod Watch & Clock-->Link
Vintage Ikepod-ish Jurgentron Triple Date-->Link



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Friday, April 20, 2007

All Wound Up - 2007 Baselworld & SIHH

So far, my favorite watches for 2007 include DeBethune, Sarpaneva, HD3, Hautlence, Greubel Forsey, and the Opus 7. Nevertheless, here are some other noteworthy new releases from Basel/SIHH;

Glashütte Original - PanoTourbillon XL

Vianney Halter 'Janvier Classique Lune et Soleil'
Solar Time & Moonphase-->Link

FP Journe 'Centigraph' -->Link

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab
First lubricant-free watch-->Link

A.Lange & Sohne 31
First 31 Day Power Reserve-->Link
(Wind once, runs for a month!)

Concord C1-->Link

Bell & Ross BR01 Instrument
Blue, Orange & all black Phantom-->Link

Related new-release posts;
DeBethune-->Link
Greubel Forsey-->Link
Opus 7-->Link
Sarpaneva Supernova-->Link
Hautlence-->Link
HD3 Vulcania-->Link
Bell & Ross Tourbillon-->Link


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Wednesday, April 18, 2007

De Bethune is De Bomb

De Bethune, a five year old brand radically rising the ranks of independent cool. Their latest is this 2007 prototype seen at Basel called The TimeZone - Power Prototype #1. Seemingly the next stage of the DB Power collection. They're a very innovative and exclusive brand with the perfect blend of technical prowess and aesthetic sophistication.

via Josh @ Horomundi

The 2006 DeBethune DB22 Power Automatic

The 2005 DBS model with patented three-dimensional
revolving moonphase sphere at 6

Close-up of moon phase ball
DBS collection-->Link




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Tuesday, April 17, 2007

The Latest Cabestan Photographs

I've been waiting to see more extensive photos of the Cabestan by Vianney Halter and Jean-François Ruchonnet of the DMC Group. So thanks to SuitbertW who just shot these for The Purists. The Cabestan has yet to go into production (as far as I know) and these prototypes seem to be the only existing specimens so far.

The rolling barreled displays are powered by chain links and fusee wound by a winding winch!

Mechanical specs below photos;





A spectacular architecture
(via EuropaStar)

This really spectacular architecture seems to be absolutely original. The mechanical design of the Cabestan, including its tourbillon, is totally transversal. The indications (hour, minute, seconds, and power reserve) appear on the cylinders located at the four “corners” of the watch.
Starting from the lower left, we find the barrel, which transmits its driving power to the movement by the intermediary of a chain. This chain is connected to a second cylinder, at the upper left, made up of one part of a fusee (placed horizontally as opposed to the traditional fusees that are always vertical), and the other of the cylindrical power reserve indicator (a total of 72 hours).

Still on the upper end, but this time on the right, we find two cylinders next to each other, providing the perfectly readable hours and minutes. In the lower right hand corner, we can see the tourbillon, which is also placed vertically and is directly linked to another cylinder, which quite logically gives the seconds indication, as the tourbillon makes one rotation per minute.
This completely original mechanical movement, with manual winding, a fusee and a tourbillon, integrates six ball bearings into its operation. It is also water-resistant to 30 metres. The entire movement is visible from above and from the side, under a double sapphire crystal (“Trimaran” model) with three recessed and curved sides, taking the form of a “hood”, all in a very sturdy design.

Winding the watch and setting the hour and minutes are effected using a winding stem in the form of a movable “winch” that links directly to one of the small “capstans” that are found at the four exterior angles of the case: at the upper left, it acts directly on the fusee and, by the intermediary of the chain, allows the barrel to be wound; at the upper right, it acts on the minute cylinder which is connected to that of the hours. The two other small “capstans” are only there for decoration and to complete the aesthetics of the case. Once the small winch is used, it is easily stored in the buckle of the watch’s bracelet.

Related Posts;
The Other Cabestan
Jacob & Co. Quenttin
HD3 Vulcania
Tag Heuer V4 Beltdrive
Vianney Halter Trio
Vianney Halter Antiqua


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Monday, April 16, 2007

Girard Perregaux 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon


Well, since the Opus 5 concept watch 'Time Bandit' was never made, I guess I'll have to settle for this Girard Perregaux '1945 Jackpot Tourbillon'. Just introduced this week at the Geneva SIHH show, this hautegadget has an actual miniaturized mechanical slot machine just above the hands and tourbillon. Each roller has five symbols , hearts, diamonds, spades, horseshoes, and three liberty bells for jackpot. When the arm on the side is pulled, the spin also activates a striking mechanism of chiming gongs - for those vintage casino sounds. While modern barreled watches like Jean Dunand's Shabaka and the vintage rollers of the Patek Cobra incorporate timekeeping to this inventive display, the GP Jackpot represents what one-armed-bandits do best, taking lots of your money.

The specs;
• 18k pink gold case
• Dimensions: 43.00 x 43.95 mm
• Height: 17.30 mm
• Antireflective sapphire crystal
• See-through case back, fastened with 4 screws
• Water-resistant to 30 metres
• Movement GIRARD-PERREGAUX GPFAY08
• Jackpot Tourbillon under gold Bridge
• Mechanical with manual winding
• Calibre: 38.60 x 32.60 mm
• Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
• Power reserve: minimum 96 hours (4 days)
• Functions: hour, minute, small seconds on the Tourbillon
• Slot machine and striking mechanism
• Alligator straps with folding buckle

via Timezone

Related posts;
Time Bandit
Patek Philippe Cobra
Jaz Derby Swissonic
Jean Dunand Shabaka

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Saturday, April 14, 2007

Attack of the Independents - Greubel Forsey 'Invention Piece 1'


Thanks to Ian Skellern, Wei Koh and Josh at Horromundi / Revolution who met with Stephen Forsey and Robert Gruebel at Baselworld for the amazing first photos of the prototype 'Invention Piece 1'. The dynamic duo dubbed Greubel-Forsey have been creating spectacular timepieces since they teamed up in 1999. And coming off the Opus 6, they are back and badder than ever with this Invention Piece 1. A series of 22 watches, 11 in red gold and 11 in white gold. A truly spectacular wristwatch with time indicators revolving around the edges of the open double tourbillon 30°.

Ian explains the timekeeping;
"
Not quite sure how to tell the time? The red arrow pointing towards the center of the dial indicates the hours, while the blue arrow displays the minutes. The inside tourbillon cage rotates in two minutes so there are two arrows 180° apart. The time shown above is 5:17. To complete the indications on the dial we have traditional seconds at 11 and 72 hour power reserve at 2."



The story of Greubel Forsey and the Double Tourbillon 30°
is painstakingly engraved on the back.


Be sure to check out their impressive new website (with videos) showcasing their latest inventions (shown below)-->Link

Their new Double Tourbillon 30° (left)
and Tourbillon Seconde Incline (right)

Related Links;
Opus 6 by Greubel Forsey-->Link
Greubel Forsey-->Link


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Thursday, April 12, 2007

Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler

These are the biggest couple of weeks in the watchmaking world. The yearly horological orgy and pissing contest is back for the 2007 BaselWorld Watch Fair and the Geneva SIHH.

With that said, I'll be featuring anything particularly interesting in the coming weeks so stay tuned...

For starters, one of the more anticipated models to come out is the secretive Opus 7 project with Andreas Strehler. An unexpected choice for watchmaker partly due his previous minimalistic creations. At first glance, the Opus dial appears to have flying buttresses made of metallic squid. Upon further examination, you learn that the simple but complex system for its three alternating functions. One press of the pusher within the crown displays the hours, a second, the minutes, and a third push shows the power reserve up to 60 hours. All this is exhibited on just one disc with only two rows of digits. Each display is separate from one another so glancing down is out of the question, you gotta take the time to spin this wheel of fortune.

One of only 50 models produced. The case is 45mm wide of rhodium plated white gold.






Related posts;
The Opus Time Bandit
Opus 6 by Gruebel Forsey

Links;
Harry Winston
Opus 5 by Felix Baumgartner
Opus 3 by Vianney Halter


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